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Thread: Brake Master Cylinder removal question

  1. #1

    Default Brake Master Cylinder removal question

    Has anyone taken a brake master cylinder off?

    There's a pipe on the bottom of the brake reservoir, I think it's the clutch hydraulic system feed

    Anyway, it seems to be pressed on to the bottom of the BMC reservoir, and I need to remove it to remove the BMC. Is it just a case of pulling it off, does it screw off, or is there some other mechanism to release it please?


  2. #2



    I'm on the way of replacing it also.

    I believe that is just remove the slave clutch cylinder feed pipe from the BMC reservoir.

    Don't forget to bleed the brake system, as well as the hydraulic clutch slave actuator.
    The brake bleed sequence is the following:

    Front LH wheel.
    Front RH wheel.
    Rear LH wheel.
    Rear RH wheel.

    See if the below helps...

  3. #3


    I cannot seem to be allowed to post pictures.

    Dunno why, and I have read the forum's rules.

    When the Moderators allow me to, I'll place the extract from Citroen's workshop manual.

  4. #4
    Full Member Cruddd is on a distinguished road
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    C2 Model
    06 Black VTS


    You have to have a certain number of posts before you can add photos, i believe its only 5 posts or so

  5. #5


    I couldn't figure how to 'decouple' the pipe from the reservoir to the clutch, so I jus detached the reservoir from the BMC in the engine bay. IT was a messy job - lots of brake cleaner and rags underneath to catch the spilled fluid.

    I got the new BMC fitted, and pressure bled about 2L of brake fluid through the system, It was a bit better, but I'm still getting a spongy pedal. I bit the bullet and bought a Lexia clone so I can try to bleed the ABS unit.

  6. #6



    I believe that there is no need to bleed the ABS Unit.

    The Service Manual states that the ABS must not come on during the bleeding procedure.

    Maybe the bleeding was performed incorrectly?
    Just my guess.... don't take it too personnal.

    Maybe your rubber brake lines are too old and expanding too much when braking.

  7. #7


    I don't think it's the rubber brake lines. The pedal is spongy, and slowly sinks to just above the floor under pressure
    When I pump the pedal, it temporarily firms up, then sinks down again - classic sign of trapped air
    I'm confident in my brake bleeding, I've done it dozens of times on numerous other vehicles with no issues whatsoever, I've tried different bleeding sequences, and both manual and pressure (blow through) bleeding.
    Searching the forum, and various internet sources for the Bosch ABS unit, suggest that the valves have to be cycled while bleeding

    Still, that's no guarantee..
    I'll report back once I've tried it.. :-)

    The only other thing it could be is the brake booster, but the symptoms don't seem right for that, and the issue started when I swapped my front and rear callipers, and the system drained itself dry.

  8. #8


    i had the same problem when i was fixing my brakes. as soon as the master cylinder went dry, we could not get the pressure back, had to dissasemble the cylinder and change the rubber parts, the rings in the cylinder, and then it was ok.... don't know why it should be a problem on a new cylinder tho
    ***7x17 Wolfrace Hustle***windows tinted***Pipercross Viper***Remus rear silencer***custom rear lights***Eibach -50mm springs

    You plan on turboing that thing? You better start spending money on drugs, like all the normal kids

  9. #9


    Interesting.. I did prime the new master cylinder with fluid, but there is a chance it could still be some air in there

    Hopefully I'll get it bled again over the bank holiday. My daily is off the road... German reliability... :-\ so I have to use the C2 to get about for the time being

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