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Thread: Guide on how to change the clutch on c2 code diy home job

  1. #1
    Newbie bradleyfletcher is on a distinguished road
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    Default Guide on how to change the clutch on c2 code diy home job

    open bonnet (no shit)

    -remove battery box and disconnect battery(8mm on -lead) and press the tab on the side to release the battery.
    -remove both ecu's from their position. the back one can stay in the battery tray the other one just slides out. you can see in the pics that you have to remove the cover to get better access to
    disconnect the rear ecu.
    -pry off all the clips (there's one that slides up) off the battery tray.
    -unbolt the battery tray (2x10mm) and slide it out of the way
    -remove the air filter. if you got the standard cold feed box pry it over the tab that you can see from the top. then this will make taking the battery tray out easier.
    -take off the lower coolant hose that attaches to the thermostat housing (it goes to/from the heater core) to give you better clearance when removing gearbox.
    -remove gear cables by pushing in the orange tabs and pull them up off the gearbox selector arm (see pic)
    -pull the pin back where the gear cables are attached to the support bracket (pin pulls one way) and lift them up out of the way.
    -undo the earth connected to gear box (think its 13mm)
    -undo the slave cylinder bolts with ratchet spanner (13mm) and lift it off the gearbox making sure the hydraulic line is not in the way. no need to disconnect the hydraulic pipe as it doesn't get the slave out the way. I bled the clutch afterwards just to flush it as I've bled the brakes already.
    - loosen wheel bolts and jack up the car. punch the driveshaft nut out so you can undo it 27mm or 30mm (forgot).
    -drain gear box oil using square socket size 8 I think.
    -remove the lower part of the anti roll bar drop link 17mm and hex or torx bit in middle.
    -release both lower arms from the hub by undoing the bolt that secures it in place (17mm head 16mm nut)use a pry bar to lower the arm enough to get it off the hub.
    -remove both drive shafts from the gear box (they just slide/fall out easy)
    -remove the plastic splash guard/inner arch cover (pry the centre clips out of the rivet first and pry the whole rivet out)
    -undo the lower support bar and get it out the way (e16 external torx bit)
    -support the engine with a support bar or place a block of wood and jack up the engine.
    -remove lower gear box bell housing bolts (13mm) and lower gear box mount (17mm?). there is one lower bell housing bolt on the drivers side and its a hex bolt holding the exhaust bracket on as
    well.
    -remove the starter motor bolts. (13mm) 3 bolts you can access from the drivers side using lots of extension bars. I just left the bolts in the holes of the starter as it would be difficult putting them back in. plus the starter just sits there.
    -put a transmission jack underneath the gearbox or use a normal jack whatever you think is best.
    -remove the upper bell housing bolts 3 in total one of them holds the starter. (13mm)
    -remove the 2 bolts that attach the gearbox to the gearbox upper mount (16mm)
    -now you can pry the gearbox off the engine and lower the gear box down and out from underneath of the car.
    -release the pressure off the clutch by just loosing the torx bolts a bit first then undo all of them. take the clutch off and clean the flywheel up.
    -to change the release bearing is easy (make sure you have the right kit) pull the selector fork off its pivot ball. slide the old release bearing off, slide the new one on. put the selector fork back on its ball and check it slides back and forth on the shaft ok(grease it up)
    - put the new clutch on using an alignment tool
    -lift the gearbox back up, slide the shaft back in and but the bell housing bolts in
    -refitting is opposite to removal just bleed the clutch after just to make sure nothing happens when your driving along

  2. #2
    Newbie bradleyfletcher is on a distinguished road
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    Default some pics to help a bit

    It's not that difficult. I've never changed a clutch ever and it took me a couple of days. I didn't have a transmission jack so I had to wait for my mate to help me put the gearbox back in. I started at 7:30am and had it ready to go back on at half 2 but I had to wait for my mate to help as he was at work. 13 hours I had the gearbox back in and everything else. part from the battery tray and the ecus so I put them back together the next day and it works fine. most people take it to the garage but I don't have the money to do that. So I thought I'll have a go myself and save some cash.
    Attached Images

  3. #3
    Member Regular Poster sebastian is on a distinguished road
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    Default

    What is the part number for LUK clutch kit you used? Also did LUK clutch disk springs were kind of loose? I bought Valeo 826574 kit and I was able to rotate all of the springs with my fingers.
    There is no preload on them. Was wondering if this is acceptable. For a safe measure I requested my parts guy to order another set for comparison.
    "I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me. Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog

  4. #4
    Newbie bradleyfletcher is on a distinguished road
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    The original ones for the car is probably Valeo as they are a French brand and as it's a French car I think they might have used them. When I took it off the car the springs felt really loose as if they were going to fall
    out. so is that what it is? They have no preload in them (I don't know)? I guess that's normal then for a Valeo. You can shake the friction disc and the springs were rattling like mad. The LUK one cost me 90 and the
    Valeo was around 50 (I think) so I thought I would get the better one. The springs on the LUK one were stiff compared to the one that was in the car. I got the clutch from my local car parts place called auto stores
    and I should have asked them. I'm not saying Valeo is crap I just went with a LUK cause I thought it would be better. I will have a look on the receipt and the box to see if there is a part number.

  5. #5
    Newbie bradleyfletcher is on a distinguished road
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    Default clutch

    20170609_141642.jpg20170609_141634.jpg
    the friction disc was like 1 mm to being flat so would have started slipping. the release bearing is very worn out surprised it didn't fall apart.

  6. #6
    Member Regular Poster sebastian is on a distinguished road
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    Default

    I was able to check another set of Valeo clutch kit and it has exactly the same clutch disk with loose springs. I also went ahead and contacted Valeo.
    They said these springs should be loose and it is an engineers design. I asked if after I fit it onto my engine would I be hearing any rattling - they said I wouldn't. I will give it a try.
    "I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me. Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog

  7. #7
    Newbie bradleyfletcher is on a distinguished road
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    let me know if you have any rattling as I was going to buy valeo one.

  8. #8
    Member Regular Poster sebastian is on a distinguished road
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    Fitted Valeo clutch kit today and didn't notice any rattling while idle or driving. One I took off was super loose and spring looked like they were about to fall out.
    "I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me. Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog

  9. #9

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    Just changed my clutch as the thrust bearing was just a handful of scrap.
    Should there be a clip to hold the thrust bearing in place as it keeps falling of the fork?
    Andy

  10. #10
    Member Regular Poster sebastian is on a distinguished road
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    Nope, no clip.
    "I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me. Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog

  11. #11

    Default

    HELP. Clutch and sump changed. Engine wouldn't turn over even with fresh battery and jump leads, eco mode and battery light flashing. I gave the car a tow and it fired into life with a puff of smoke from engine, turns out the alternator had seized and the smoke was the belt burning out. I have put on a second hand alternator and a new belt, the car started and the battery light went out but, it started to flash up brake fault and various lights started appearing with two black bars where the speedo should have been. I took the car for a short run to see if it would clear itself only to find out that I now had heavy steering too????? I then tried the reset thing which didn't work and my driver window won't go back up either. Can anyone PLEASE help as I have spent a lot of time and money on it and at every turn something else goes wrong.
    Hopefull, Andy.

  12. #12
    C2 Addict Advanced Poster ozVTR is on a distinguished road ozVTR's Avatar
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    Default

    Try FULLY charging your battery on a battery charger. DO NOT TEST THE BATTERY WITH A MULTIMETER!

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