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Thread: C2 VTS from Poland

  1. #126
    Member Regular Poster sebastian is on a distinguished road
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    Bash, I will definitely measure compression at some point before slapping turbo on my engine (need to add compression tester to my shopping list). I am considering doing complete overhaul with new piston rings, rod and main bearings, lapping valves, new valve guides, cylinder bore hone and new seals.
    Maybe throw a new oil pump and chain just for good measure. It would provide some interesting content for the thread and discussion opportunities on the subject.

    Meanwhile new studs and copper-coated nuts arrived

    "I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me. Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog

  2. #127

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    Well, actualy, the idea with small turbo from 1,6thp, and a better map sensor sounds best, small intercooler from a diesel to the front, and you have a near stock setup with probably 180hp, or maybe 200 on higher boost, but with minimum lag from small turbo. (my mom has a 1,2tsi in a skoda rapid, it makes 110hp, and you cant even hear the turbo, so i reckon a turbine that size would be enough) Just leaves the ecu sorting, the drive-by-wire and a waay too weak gearbox
    ***7x17 Wolfrace Hustle***windows tinted***Pipercross Viper***Remus rear silencer***custom rear lights***Eibach -50mm springs
    http://www.c2club.co.uk/showthread.php?306-My-baby...-**progress-update**/page1

    You plan on turboing that thing? You better start spending money on drugs, like all the normal kids

  3. #128
    Member Regular Poster sebastian is on a distinguished road
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    This turbocharger is a twin-scroll design which is much more responsive and efficient then regular turbocharger. I hope I can manage to build it next year. I don't need much, just two things - time and money.

    Meanwhile I removed old studs, ran a tap to clean the threads and installed new studs with a dab of copper paste, new gasket hoping it will not give me a lip next time I decide to take the catalytic converter off.



    I also installed new camshaft seals and finished putting timing kit on the engine:




    Then I took apart few of the lifters:



    "I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me. Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog

  4. #129
    Member Regular Poster sebastian is on a distinguished road
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    I put back together the engine, changed coolant, new oil and filter. Whilst any lifter noise it might have had is gone now the noise from the video below is still present. It was there before I put new lifters.
    It goes away when engine is fully warm but occasionally comes back and makes me worried.

    Engine noise
    "I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me. Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog

  5. #130
    Member Regular Poster wurlycorner is on a distinguished road
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    By Loeb
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bash View Post
    Please stop giving bad advice, you don't know what your talking about.
    Errr... Pardon? What?!
    Giving bad advice? What are you talking about?
    I haven't given any advice - I said what the noise sounds like on the C2 that I work on. And you can't possibly be telling me what that sounds like (and disagreeing with my view that it's top end noise) because you haven't heard the car! - which is the same reason why I've offered no opinion on the cause of the noise on this car... Because I haven't heard it myself!
    Last edited by wurlycorner; 29-03-2018 at 11:30 AM.

  6. #131

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    Deleted by user.
    Last edited by Bash; 30-03-2018 at 10:08 PM.

  7. #132

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    Deleted by user.
    Last edited by Bash; 30-03-2018 at 10:08 PM. Reason: Deleted

  8. #133
    Member Regular Poster sebastian is on a distinguished road
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    Yep. Every cold start and it quiets down after a while but it can reappear sometimes when warm too. It is more to the accessories side and maybe middle of the block. I might rebuild it sooner than I was intending too.
    "I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me. Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog

  9. #134

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    it's abit louder than mine. will make a video of that so you can check it out
    ***7x17 Wolfrace Hustle***windows tinted***Pipercross Viper***Remus rear silencer***custom rear lights***Eibach -50mm springs
    http://www.c2club.co.uk/showthread.php?306-My-baby...-**progress-update**/page1

    You plan on turboing that thing? You better start spending money on drugs, like all the normal kids

  10. #135
    Member Regular Poster sebastian is on a distinguished road
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    Thanks Kirian.
    "I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me. Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog

  11. #136
    Member Regular Poster wurlycorner is on a distinguished road
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bash View Post
    Don't take over someones car thread with your petty nonsense, have some class please.
    lol - you started that, so clearly it's ok for you to make petty comments but not for someone to challenge you back?

    I do agree though that that isn't what people's profile threads are for, so we'll just leave this one there.

  12. #137

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    Hi Sebastian,

    I have the exactly the same issue, it's hard to say exactly what it is without taking the pistons out but we did notice something quite interesting when the cylinder head was off.

    My bottom end looks perfect with no burn marks or scores or any signs of wear (I think there is a picture of it on my thread) so it's not crank related. What we did notice is that when the pistons where in top dead centre there was a small amount of vertical movement, this however didn't and hasn't caused any compression or power delivery problems.

    As the noise goes away when warm or possibly when enough oil pressure has built up one conclusion could be that this is in fact piston slap and a normal feature of this engine. This however is a theory, despite proving Pavlov wrong on one occasion it seems in order to confirm this i need to open the box and see for my self.

    Kirian, when yours was new did it sound the same or has it got worse over time?

  13. #138
    Member Regular Poster sebastian is on a distinguished road
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    Could it be the rings clearance to the groves of the pistons? After time they wore out and machined some material from the piston causing excessive movement at the TDC. It would change after material expands due to heat taking up the slack.
    As long as the rings maintain proper gap in the cylinder bore it would not cause compression loss. But coming from my little experience in engine rebuilding I noticed that every piston would have a bit of a horizontal play when at TDC and this is by design.
    I only rebuild three engines and maybe all three of them had worn pistons or new rings I was putting on could be faulty but what are the odds.
    "I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me. Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog

  14. #139

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    That makes sense, it could be heat expansion rather then oil pressure (or both) which attenuates the ticking sound, what do you think?

  15. #140
    Member Regular Poster sebastian is on a distinguished road
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    It is hard to say with limited data that I could gather but I can eliminate two variables: lifters - all brand new and rod bearings - these sound completely different and get worse over time plus noise would be coming from the crank case other than top end.

    My old Volvo V40 with a Renault diesel engine was making ticking noise when cold due to loose swirl chamber (it was a non-direct injection). I rebuild that engine and had swirl chambers bores welded and machined to press fit which cured that issue.

    I am also thinking about the valves and valve guides. What if a valve stem sticks in the guide causing possible rough idle on cold and with heat it gains clearance and opens and closes normally.

    I think I need to brake my piggy bank and start buying stuff...
    "I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me. Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog

  16. #141

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    My Valves and seals were perfect when I took them off, I replaced the stem seals but put the original valves back in. There was no indication of any wear or damage to the valves if that helps.

  17. #142
    Member Regular Poster sebastian is on a distinguished road
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    Yeah, it is kinda unlikely for sticky valves to make that kind of noise. I think it is piston related due to fact that it goes away after engine gets to the operating temperature which may indicate the piston skirt to cylinder bore clearance is out of spec.
    All will be clear once head is off. I was wondering if slapping new set of rings will do anything at all to cure this. Pistons are pricey items to begin with.
    "I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me. Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog

  18. #143

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    https://www.zrp-rods.com/product_mod...a-use-2-rings/

    maybe this would help stop the iritating sound
    ***7x17 Wolfrace Hustle***windows tinted***Pipercross Viper***Remus rear silencer***custom rear lights***Eibach -50mm springs
    http://www.c2club.co.uk/showthread.php?306-My-baby...-**progress-update**/page1

    You plan on turboing that thing? You better start spending money on drugs, like all the normal kids

  19. #144
    Member Regular Poster sebastian is on a distinguished road
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    Solid mounts? Not really. Poly inserts - lets give it a go:


    "I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me. Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog

  20. #145
    Member Regular Poster sebastian is on a distinguished road
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    Did a little cleaning session:




    Very happy with the results. Used water from my well which left no residue or stains.

    I was not a fan of OEM shifter know. I didn't like the feel of aluminum. I like me some leather though. I think I might overdo with the red theme now. Anyhow, It is a wrap and if I am fed-up with it I can always peal it off.
    "I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me. Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog

  21. #146
    Lite Member sevenfourate is on a distinguished road sevenfourate's Avatar
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    Gear-knob looks great I think....

    Know what you mean with Aliminium. Everyone has one; and they are too cold in winter and too hot in summer. Nice to be different....
    Regards "Shuv" - (Ex) Loeb 337 and now GT No: 1965

    Progress Thread: http://c2club.co.uk/showthread.php?21663-sevenfourates-Loeb-337

  22. #147
    Member Regular Poster sebastian is on a distinguished road
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    I wouldn't complain on aluminum shifter in a Gallardo but here - It is much nicer to shift with a slightly larger in diameter and leather covered knob. It was meant for VW and Audi but with a little bit of massaging it fits perfectly.
    "I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me. Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog

  23. #148

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    hey first time poster here, gotta say love what you've done with the car puts mine to shame lol

    thanks for all the info in the thread, very useful for all of us, n have to say thanks to others too like sevenfourate, El cap, C2B, ashturnergt & seniorgt you've all helped me alot without knowing it

    now time to ask for help properly lol n dont want to highjack your thread either so apologies if this is "uncool"

    you mentioned in your thread about the sidelight warning & fitting a 10w ceramic resistor just wanted to ask if you could pop up a link where to get them as will need to sort this and other issues before next MOT, grrrrr
    also I know later in your build you changed lights again so was'nt sure if all error messages stayed away when you did the first change

    the other question i have is you also mentioned changing your radiator, I was wondering which you used as changing mine at the minute but already ordered one that wont work and don't want to make the same mistake again

    Again Love the wagon and cheers fer everything

  24. #149
    Member Regular Poster sebastian is on a distinguished road
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    Hi c2codeni,
    I got ceramic resistors from a general electronic shop that sells capacitors, resistors, coils, DYI kits, car audio components. These are super cheap and reliable. The reason to use a ceramic resistor instead of regular resistor is that it can handle heat better.
    By putting them in parallel with the actual sidelight LED you create an additional amperage draw which combined with what LED is drawing - makes BSI happy and does not annoy you with the faulty sidelight warning.
    When doing bi-led conversion I had to incorporate a much sophisticated way to make BSI happy (all in the thread including schematics). I must say after months of using it I had zero issues. I even passed our MOT yesterday with no fails.

    As to the radiator question: mine is fine. I did not have to change it yet, no leaks, does not appear to be clogged. I am changing the A/C condenser though since mine got buggered (see updates in thread below).
    "I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me. Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog

  25. #150
    Member Regular Poster sebastian is on a distinguished road
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    While doing MOT inspection I asked the garage to evacuate refrigerant from my A/C. I came home and begun disassembling the system.
    I was prepared to replace the condenser but what did not make me happy is the fact that my line needs to be replaced as well:




    This is a good end of that line:



    Then fun part begun with finding the culprit of poor A/C performance and unknown to any A/C shop whining noise.



    Pistons looks alright:



    Some pitting on a shim:



    Shaft have some wear:




    Then I found this piece of aluminum underneath one of the bearings:




    Took the control valve out:



    And a lot of debris were found in the valve seat:




    After valve disassembly I found that these aluminum chunks clogged up a plastic screen:




    I am not all that familiar with the A/C compressor theory of operation but I would wager contamination in the compressor or lines could cause malfunctions. Next season I will start with new parts and hopefully all will be fine.

    Meanwhile 'since I was there' I decided to pull out the engine and get it rebuild during winter:





    Hope all goes well and I find what causes ticking noise that I have been having since got the car.
    "I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me. Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog

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