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Thread: C2 VTS from Poland

  1. #151

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    well, tidy job, really... you do have some nerves fo steel to go dissasembling an a/c unit... what are you doing to the engine (rebuilding)??
    ***7x17 Wolfrace Hustle***windows tinted***Pipercross Viper***Remus rear silencer***custom rear lights***Eibach -50mm springs
    http://www.c2club.co.uk/showthread.php?306-My-baby...-**progress-update**/page1

    You plan on turboing that thing? You better start spending money on drugs, like all the normal kids

  2. #152
    Member Regular Poster sebastian is on a distinguished road
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    Poland
    C2 Model
    VTS
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    Yes boss, engine is getting rebuild. maybe some upgrades if budget allows. But mainly I wanna find and eliminate the ticking noise.

    I took the head off and this is what I found:

    pistons clearance

    All four behave the same clearance when at TDC. Not sure but piston slap would occur when piston is traveling up from the BDC and skirt was hitting edge of cylinder wall.
    Maybe someone more experienced in subject will comment after viewing this post.

    Some pics of rod bearings:










    Thrust washers:



    Few pics of main caps bearings:






    Pistons skirts:




    There are no signs of wear.

    Cylinders walls:

    This cylinder has some discoloration:




    It is not pitted or scored. There are still some honing marks left.


    Other cylinders are in decent shape:




    Main bearings:







    Random pics from disassembly:




    This stud wouldn't come out:







    "I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me. Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog

  3. #153

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    Hey dude, awesome work as always. Guess what? my engine gave out.

    All of my pistons were doing the same (as per your video) and about 7K KM after my head work was done my engine gave out on me in spectacular fashion. I had just completed my last lap of the Nurburgring when it and my clutch, brakes and gear linkage all failed, literally right at the gantry! The guys at Citroen at the Nurburgring diagnosed it as requiring a full engine rebuild based on the fact that Cylinder 2 was low on compression @ 4Bar whereas 1 and 3 where fine @13Bar, cylinder 4 was also low @ around 7 Bar. They were able to patch me up and I drove the 600KM back to England however there was no longer any power in the engine and plumes of black smoke was coming out of it.

    I was able to get another engine of Dkjnthn from this forum and the work to rebuild my engine will be complete by early September, I will be very interested to see for myself what let go as it's not until a complete failure it becomes apparent what part is causing the problem. Considering mine is a total failure hopefully we should be able to see large soot deposits to indicate where the engine is failing.

  4. #154
    Member Regular Poster sebastian is on a distinguished road
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    Poland
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    VTS
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    Wow man, sorry to hear that. I wonder what went wrong. It could be a combination of multiple things, head gasket, piston rings, sticky valves. Hope all goes well and you will be back on the road with a sound engine.

    I made a worrying discovery as I was disassembling head. Camshafts to be precise. Few months ago I put a whole set of tappets. It turned out that three of them got serious surface wear on the exhaust side.
    It is a mistery to me why this would happen. Camshaft has some typical wear but why would it score these tappets. I will get some pics of the damage later today.
    "I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me. Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog

  5. #155

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    Cheers dude, it will be back on the road soon, when I did my cams in March I replaced everything I could in the cylinder head apart form the hydraulic lifters and springs because they looked fine (and price) . Everything points to a engine block issue and I would assume this is down to the piston rings, however I intend to find the route cause for this soon.

  6. #156
    Member Regular Poster sebastian is on a distinguished road
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    Did you get new valves and valve guides? Please do make some photos of the internals. I am curious how it will look like after such failure.

    Got some better shots of connecting rods bearings:






    And main bearings:







    Cleaned up pistons:








    There is no way these skirts touched cylinder wall:






    I was trying to capture cylinders walls and polished out honing sections as well as some vertical scratches and discolorations:







    Hydraulic tappets after only few months:




    And lobes that supposedly did that:





    I forgot to take photos of piston rings. They were intact, no visible damages. It does not mean they were in spec since I didn't do any measurements.

    For those with engine rebuilding experience, please comment on the condition of my engines internals. Next is head disassembly.
    "I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me. Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog

  7. #157
    Member Regular Poster sebastian is on a distinguished road
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    Oil pump housing with some wear from the spur gears:



    Driven gear with minimal wear:



    Side wall:



    Sprocket gear and shiny wear marks from the chain (both will be replaced):




    Pin with wear mark (at the top):



    And wear pattern created by that pin on the pump housing:



    Main journals:







    Rod journals:






    There are no scratches that a fingernail will catch.

    Head looks fine. No signs of gasket failure:




    Compression ring:



    Second ring:



    Oil ring:



    Nothing abnormal. Oil ring clogged with burned oil.




    All is left is removing valves from the head. I have to fabricate some tool since what I usually use is too big and won't fit.

    My plan is to get cylinder walls honed, deck resurfaced, replace valve guides, lap valves, resurface head, fit new piston rings, polish crankshaft and camshafts journals.
    I will get new bearings and gaskets and hopefully close it up before next season.
    "I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me. Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog

  8. #158
    Member Regular Poster sebastian is on a distinguished road
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    Once I removed the engine and gearbox from the car I wanted to be able to use my garage to work on other cars too. I put C2 down on its wheels and I was rolling it in and out of my garage.
    Not long after I noticed it is extremely hard to make it move with steering wheel turned to either direction. I raised it up again and found out both of my front wheel bearings were shot:

    old bearing

    I put new front wheel bearings right after I bought the car. I also replaced both hubs.

    I bought couple of FAG wheel bearing kits and offered them to the car.
    The results speak for themselves:

    new bearing

    After replacing 20+ bearings without a single fail I thought it would be the same case this time as well.
    My theory is as follows: cheap aftermarket hubs are not within tolerance and are too loose when pressed in into the bearing. This causes excessive play between outer race - ball - inner race.

    Some pics from the process of wheel bearing R&R:






    "I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me. Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog

  9. #159
    Member Regular Poster sebastian is on a distinguished road
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    Edit:

    new bearing

    This is the proper video of new bearing.
    "I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me. Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog

  10. #160
    Member Regular Poster sebastian is on a distinguished road
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    Since I got the car it had a case of occasional jitters of the steering wheel when stationary. It was random usually when waiting on traffic lights, not touching steering wheel.
    It would start to make tiny left and then right turns very rapidly.

    With the engine out I had lots of room for activities. I took out the plate covering small pcb board with the potentiometer and a bunch of passives.




    Eagle-eyed among you will notice signs of oxidation around solder joints. These were so brittle, crumbling when touched with a pick.



    I cleaned them all up


    And applied new solder



    Hopefully it would eliminate any steering issues.
    "I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me. Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog

  11. #161
    Member Regular Poster sebastian is on a distinguished road
    Join Date
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    Location
    Poland
    C2 Model
    VTS
    Posts
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    "I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me. Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." - Moog

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