ozVTR
01-08-2005, 05:40 PM
First:- a word on speakers.
I do not intend discussing the pros and cons of different types of speakers, comps, co-axe, peak power, RMS or what ever. That’s your job! At any one time there are always discussions on the forum about that and I do not purport to be an expert on huge system installs. I only intend to outline the physical mounting of said speakers and things to look out for.
The area in which the front door speakers are mounted is small. The white polystyrene foam “cup” that the speaker is mounted in is the splashguard. This stops water, which runs between the outer window seal and the glass, from splashing directly on the speaker. So take this into consideration if you decide to cut out this cup. When the window glass is down there is LESS than 10mm clearance behind the back of this foam cup and the glass! “OEM replacement speakers” with a mounting hole spacing of 156mm should fit. This includes (some) 16 cm and 17cm (6 ½”) speakers. The depth of the cup is a bit over 55mm. Of course check the dimensions BEFORE buying your speakers!
Is it worth it?
The original speakers have a paper cone, a short throw and a very small magnet. All of which result in poor bass response. The mid-to-upper response of the system is not bad (not brilliant but not bad) and the in-dash tweeters make the big difference here. Most good aftermarket brands of (mid priced at least) speakers will tighten up and un-muffle the bottom end of the frequency response. We are not talking gut-rumbling bass, just a tidy up of the bottom end. Of course I am only talking a “plug n play” solution here, no head unit change, amps or million dollar speakers.
For the record the speakers I installed were Clarion SRR1725’s. They cost me $120 AUD (that’s about £48 ).
Ok on with the install.
The speaker covers have pegs at the front (the most forward part) and lugs at the back. See the photo. Pull the front of the cover first, and then pull the rear lower peg out then “hinge” it towards the back.
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~darrenwood/spk1.jpg
Drill off the heads of the pop rivets. I used a 9/64” drill bit. Use a vacuum cleaner (Hoover?) to suck up the swarf (bits of metal) as it comes of the rivets or it makes a mess.
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~darrenwood/spk2.jpg
Lift the speaker out and sit it in the door pocket.
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~darrenwood/spk3.jpg
There is a retaining lug on the electrical connector, push the lug inwards, towards the body of the connector, then pull the connector and speaker apart. Remove the speaker. Knock the remainder of the rivet into the door cavity using a hammer and flat punch. You can try to catch the bits of rivet but it’s a pain.
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~darrenwood/spk4.jpg
A company called Autoconnect (in the UK) produce adaptors to go from the Citroen OEM plug to one large spade and one small spade connector (suits most replacement speakers). They are a mail-order company and charge about £7 postage but the adaptors are only £1.50 each. Or you can cut off the OEM connector and put crimp lugs on the wires!
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~darrenwood/spk4a.jpg
I took the silicone covers off the spade connectors on the wire supplied with the after market speakers and put them on the adaptor connectors (which, obviously, doesn’t come with them). I covered the adaptor wires with tubing then attached the assembly to the speaker with cable ties. The reason for this is to take the strain off the spade connectors and reduce the chance of the cabling catching on the window glass as it lowers.
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~darrenwood/spk5.jpg
I pushed the two connectors together then checked that the speakers were working. Next I pop riveted the speaker in place. You could just as well use the screws and speed nuts provided in the speaker set.
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~darrenwood/spk6.jpg
So there you are. Just snap the cover back in place and you are finished! Oops I nearly forgot, for the best sound you should do the other door too :wink: .
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~darrenwood/spk7.jpg
I do not intend discussing the pros and cons of different types of speakers, comps, co-axe, peak power, RMS or what ever. That’s your job! At any one time there are always discussions on the forum about that and I do not purport to be an expert on huge system installs. I only intend to outline the physical mounting of said speakers and things to look out for.
The area in which the front door speakers are mounted is small. The white polystyrene foam “cup” that the speaker is mounted in is the splashguard. This stops water, which runs between the outer window seal and the glass, from splashing directly on the speaker. So take this into consideration if you decide to cut out this cup. When the window glass is down there is LESS than 10mm clearance behind the back of this foam cup and the glass! “OEM replacement speakers” with a mounting hole spacing of 156mm should fit. This includes (some) 16 cm and 17cm (6 ½”) speakers. The depth of the cup is a bit over 55mm. Of course check the dimensions BEFORE buying your speakers!
Is it worth it?
The original speakers have a paper cone, a short throw and a very small magnet. All of which result in poor bass response. The mid-to-upper response of the system is not bad (not brilliant but not bad) and the in-dash tweeters make the big difference here. Most good aftermarket brands of (mid priced at least) speakers will tighten up and un-muffle the bottom end of the frequency response. We are not talking gut-rumbling bass, just a tidy up of the bottom end. Of course I am only talking a “plug n play” solution here, no head unit change, amps or million dollar speakers.
For the record the speakers I installed were Clarion SRR1725’s. They cost me $120 AUD (that’s about £48 ).
Ok on with the install.
The speaker covers have pegs at the front (the most forward part) and lugs at the back. See the photo. Pull the front of the cover first, and then pull the rear lower peg out then “hinge” it towards the back.
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~darrenwood/spk1.jpg
Drill off the heads of the pop rivets. I used a 9/64” drill bit. Use a vacuum cleaner (Hoover?) to suck up the swarf (bits of metal) as it comes of the rivets or it makes a mess.
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~darrenwood/spk2.jpg
Lift the speaker out and sit it in the door pocket.
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~darrenwood/spk3.jpg
There is a retaining lug on the electrical connector, push the lug inwards, towards the body of the connector, then pull the connector and speaker apart. Remove the speaker. Knock the remainder of the rivet into the door cavity using a hammer and flat punch. You can try to catch the bits of rivet but it’s a pain.
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~darrenwood/spk4.jpg
A company called Autoconnect (in the UK) produce adaptors to go from the Citroen OEM plug to one large spade and one small spade connector (suits most replacement speakers). They are a mail-order company and charge about £7 postage but the adaptors are only £1.50 each. Or you can cut off the OEM connector and put crimp lugs on the wires!
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~darrenwood/spk4a.jpg
I took the silicone covers off the spade connectors on the wire supplied with the after market speakers and put them on the adaptor connectors (which, obviously, doesn’t come with them). I covered the adaptor wires with tubing then attached the assembly to the speaker with cable ties. The reason for this is to take the strain off the spade connectors and reduce the chance of the cabling catching on the window glass as it lowers.
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~darrenwood/spk5.jpg
I pushed the two connectors together then checked that the speakers were working. Next I pop riveted the speaker in place. You could just as well use the screws and speed nuts provided in the speaker set.
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~darrenwood/spk6.jpg
So there you are. Just snap the cover back in place and you are finished! Oops I nearly forgot, for the best sound you should do the other door too :wink: .
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~darrenwood/spk7.jpg